What to Look for When Choosing Sunscreen

Seeking shade, wearing protective clothing, and applying sunscreen are your best defenses against the sun’s harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays. But with so many sunscreens available, how do you know which option is right for you?

“The main thing is to find a sunscreen you like and that you’ll use regularly,” said Susan Swetter, MD, an American Society of Clinical Oncology (ASCO) expert and Professor of Dermatology at Stanford Medicine. “If you can make sunscreen part of daily life, it will protect you against skin cancer, early skin aging, and other damage the sun can cause.”

Sunscreen essentials

Two sunscreen features are a must, said Dr. Swetter. The rest is mostly a matter of personal preference.

First, look for a broad-spectrum formula, meaning the sunscreen has been shown to protect against both UVA and UVB rays. UVA rays lead to aging and long-term skin damage, while UVB rays are the main cause of sunburn. Both can cause skin cancer, by far the most common cancer diagnosed in the US.

The other key sunscreen feature is a sun protection factor (SPF) of 30 or higher. SPF indicates the level of protection the sunscreen provides against UVB rays.

Mineral vs. chemical sunscreens

Mineral and chemical sunscreens work differently to filter UV rays.

Mineral sunscreen physically shields your skin from UV rays. Mineral sunscreen can’t be absorbed through the skin and is less likely to cause irritation. However, it generally won’t provide the same level of sun protection as a chemical sunscreen.

“Look for mineral sunscreens with a zinc oxide concentration of 20% or higher,” said Dr. Swetter. “Mineral sunscreens containing micronized zinc oxide or titanium oxide now come in clear or sheer formulas. They leave less of a whitish hue on the skin than sunscreens of the past.”

Chemical sunscreen absorbs and deactivates UV rays. These sunscreens provide greater broad-spectrum protection than mineral sunscreens. But they may cause skin sensitivity.

“Due to different regulations, chemical sunscreens from Europe, Australia, and other countries protect against an even broader range of UVA rays and so provide superior broad-spectrum filtration. The best chemical filters available in the US today are avobenzone and octocrylene. But hopefully more effective ingredients from abroad will soon be approved and added to US sunscreens,” said Dr. Swetter.

Lotion, stick, or spray sunscreen?

Lotion and stick sunscreens are thicker and tend to provide better skin coverage. Spray sunscreens may be more convenient for families. Whichever you choose, follow the directions on the package. Sunscreen works only if you use it properly.

Moisturizer, foundation, and other cosmetics can also count toward your sunscreen use. “You don’t need to add sunscreen on top of what’s in your makeup, but make sure it’s broad spectrum and the SPF is high enough,” said Dr. Swetter.

Understanding sunscreen labels

Broad-spectrum, SPF 30+ sunscreens may have other information listed on the label. Common details include:

• Water resistant: No sunscreen can be truly waterproof or sweatproof. But some have been shown to protect the skin through sweating and swimming. “Water resistant” means the sunscreen is effective for 40 minutes in the water, and “very water resistant” products can last up to 80 minutes in the water.
• Sport: These sunscreens are not only water resistant, but also less likely to irritate your eyes. You may even see some labeled “tear free.”
• Marine-friendly or reef safe: These sunscreens are free of ingredients that may harm coral reefs. However, more research is needed into their environmental effects.
• Expiration date: Check the package before you buy. Most sunscreens are good for 2 to 3 years, though they become less effective over time and when exposed to high heat.

When it’s time to choose a sunscreen

Ask friends and family for recommendations. Try different brands until you find one you like.

Other factors to consider include:

• If you sunburn easily, aim for SPF 50+.
• If your skin is prone to acne, look for a sunscreen designed for the face. These formulas are less likely to clog pores.
• If you have very sensitive skin, avoid sunscreens with benzophenone (also called oxybenzone). Unscented sunscreens also tend to cause less irritation.
• If you have the skin condition melasma, try a tinted mineral formula with iron oxide. It can help prevent irregular pigmentation in people with darker skin tones.
• If you have young kids, mineral sunscreens may be preferable to chemical ones to avoid skin irritation. However, most sunscreens are safe to use on children older than 6 months. It’s best to keep younger infants out of direct sunlight. Sun-protective clothing, hats, and eyewear are highly recommended for all ages.

How to make sunscreen a habit

Dr. Swetter recommends leaving your favorite sunscreen on the bathroom counter next to your toothbrush and other toiletries. Every morning, apply it to exposed skin like your face, the tops of your ears, and the backs of your hands.

Think of sunscreen as one part of your overall plan to protect against skin cancer and other sun damage. While many people associate sunscreen with summertime, sun safety matters every day.

“It’s important to protect your skin from UV rays all year long, especially if you live in a sunny climate or are outside most of the year,” said Dr. Swetter.

Learn more about sun safety from the American Cancer Society:

• How to Use Sunscreen
• Infographic: Preventing Skin Cancer
• Sun Safety Quiz
• Sun Safety Videos
• Is Getting a Base Tan Safe?

Dr. Swetter is an ASCO member.